Summers do pass by quickly in Minnesota. After a brief three-month warm spell, the cool days of fall come and spill into winter. For In Season and its restaurant regulars that is a good thing.
Vast changes are in the works for In Season and will transform the restaurant during a summer break. A different food concept is on the way. A new menu that focuses on small plates will probably replace traditional larger entrees. Even the name is slated to change.
It is never easy to say good bye to a friend even for a short while. In Season is a reliable southwest Minneapolis dining favorite that will truly be missed. Last fall, I listed In Season as one of the top 10 restaurants in and around Edina, Minn.
The Armitage neighborhood will dim without the light of this dining destination star. The temporary summer closing begins on June 2.
Still Open Through June 1
Until then, a few days remain to enjoy the mastery of executive chef Don Saunders at In Season. His sister restaurant, The Kenwood, which shares a commitment to fine food combinations that reflect the tastes of seasonal availability, will remain open during In Season’s transition.
For now, it is enough to enjoy the fine cooking In Season brings to the table. Although it is hard not to wonder exactly how things will change when summer fades into fall.
Seasonal Foods That Delight
True to its name, the In Season a la carte and tasting menu features an impressive assortment of fresh spring vegetables. The cuisine at In Season has artful presentation with dabs of sauces and frilly garnishes dotting a canvas of China plate. The food looks almost too elegant to eat, but we managed to dig in and try a number of fine dishes, including:
- Spring onion soup has a rich creamy base speckled with chunks of fiddlehead ferns and strewn with cheesy ribbons of Bent River camembert
- Poached prawns stacked up against a bed of English pea ravioli, asparagus and prawn bisque
- Falafel deep fried with a topping of sautéed morel mushrooms with sauce accents of sorrel puree and spiced ricotta
- An edible tower of Alaskan halibut assembled with soft blocks of baby artichoke hearts and morel mushrooms atop a base layer of scattered peas.
- Sweet pea ice cream formed into a large almond shape surrounded by pets de none dainty beignets soufflé fritter and a dusting of sweet caramel powder
- Butterscotch budino pudding cake with a garnish tracing of walnut praline crumbles. Sketches of sweet cream sauces and caramel adorn the plate for finishing touches that rival the creativity of post modern abstract painting.
In all, the selection was comprised of artfully delicious food that pleased the eye as much as the tongue. Seasonal foods taste better with creative presentation that challenges the norm. In Season specializes in innovative dishes that bring out the best in the fruits, vegetables, meats and cheeses available at the time.
Yes, In season will be missed, but whatever executive chef Don Saunders plans will no doubt be just as good or better. Here’s to a new season!
Location, Hours And Closing Information
In Season, 5416 Penn Avenue South, Minneapolis, MN 55419 (612) 926-0105. Spring hours are Tuesday – Thursday from 5 p.m. – 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Closed on Sunday and Monday. Closed for the summer months starting June2.